The Viking Coast – Part 2

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In this second part about the Viking Coast around us at Viking Footprints, we again explore just a short hour or so drive in a modern iron box with wheels and how you can come into contact with aspects of virtually the whole viking story. It truly is – the Viking Coast.

The Settlement of Iceland

Statue of Ingolfr Arneson, Rivedal, Dalsfjorden

Also, on our doorstep here at Viking Footprints is the beginning of another important part of the viking story – the settlement of Iceland and its consequences for the subsequent exploration and settlement in Greenland and the eventual crossing of the whole north Atlantic to what is known in the sagas as ‘Vinland’, better known to us today as Newfoundland in Canada.

These incredible stories of adventure and life in new lands started in our neighbouring fjord of Dalsfjorden. Here, on its northern side at Rivedal there is a farm that traces name all the way back to at least the 9th century. In the 874 CE Ingolfr Arnarson is said to have left Rivedal after becoming involved in a blood feud. The story can be found in the Icelandic Landnámabók (Book of Settlement) from the late medieval period. In the book Ingolfr is identified as the first settler and the founder of what is now Iceland’s capital Reyjavik. Archaeological evidence shows major settlement, most likely from Norway, in the decades after. The reasons are complex, but a driving factor may have been the victory of Harald Hårfagre (Finehair) at the Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872 CE which resulted in him becoming the first King of a unified Norway. Those of the losing side were likely faced with losing their lands or worse and some may have chosen the path to a new life in Iceland instead.

Conversion to Christianity

Stone cross from around 1000 CE at Korssund

It may not be so obvious, but here in Norway the conversion of the population to Christianity begins pretty much in the middle of what we would term the Viking Age. Certainly, there was a concerted effort by Norway’s King Haakon the Good (920 – 961 CE) to introduce the new religion. Haakon was the youngest son of Harold Finehair and actually grew up under the care of King Athelstan in England. There’s no doubt that the reasons for Haakon’s attempt at converting Norway are very complex – it had a lot more to do with politics and economics than just outright religious belief.

Here in Hyllestad around the same time the quarries that produced millstones also began producing stone crosses of various sizes to be used as symbols of the new religion in church yards and other important places. Indeed, crosses quarried in Hyllestad can be found all across west Norway, especially in the coastal regions. It remains a tantalising possibility that Haakon may have been responsible for the start of this production. But certainly, the Kings of Norway who came after him, even more forcibly imposed a conversion to Christianity. By the time of Olav Tryggvason (who ruled 995 – 1000) Christianity was firmly established in Norway. A mere 30 years later, and another King Olav II, eventually became Norway’s first saint. The stone cross at Korssund, close to the quarries in Hyllestad is connected to the legend of Saint Olav through a story that the land opened up for him here to make a passage way by water through the mountain.

1066 and Harald Hardråde and the (long than you may realise) End of the Viking Age

The south edge of Solund where Harald Hardråde mustered his fleet.

Despite the conversion to Christianity, the Viking Age, in some important respects, continued. Olav II’s half brother Harald Hardråde came to the Norwegian throne after a period of effective exile in 1046. Hardråde’s outlook was expansionist and determined to rid Norway of Danish influence, or rather replace Danish primacy (originally under Knut the Great) with Norwegian control of a ‘North Sea empire’.

Harald’s ambitions to control Denmark essentially failed and he then turned his attention to England, in the belief that he had a claim to the throne there. When Harold Godwinson was proclaimed King of England in January 1066, Harald decided to plan an invasion. During the period Spring 1066 to September 1066, Harald Hardråde gathered a great war fleet together. Where? Just on Viking Footprints’ doorstep in the islands of Solund a short distance down the fjord. And it was from here that Harald began the ill fated voyage that ended in his defeat, and death, at the Battle of Stamford Bridge on 25th September, 1066.

The rest, they say, is history. But not quite. The ‘end’ of the viking age is really rather complicated. The Norwegians were to retain control of the western isles of Scotland until the aftermath of the Battle of Largs in 1263 (yes, that’s 200 years after 1066). And indeed, the Orkney and Shetland islands – that were a key part of the Viking Age expansion from here in Norway – remained in Norwegian hands until as late as 1472. Indeed, such was the lasting Viking footprint in Shetland, that they still spoke a form of Old Norwegian there until the 1800s.

Thanks again for reading, we will be back soon with more blog entries on developments in our project here, on the Viking Coast, Hyllestad, west Norway.

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Viking Footprints is a Viking themed activity company and living history project based in Hyllestad, west Norway.

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